Photos by Walter Grio. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012 New York. Text by Anastasia Lambrou.
Carlos Miele’s collection paid homage to his Brazilian roots with inspiration drawing from traditional weaving intertwined with natural colors and reminders of warm weather and the ocean.
Ponchos paired with 1920’s Jodhpurs were cinched at the waist with wide brass studded belts. Making ponchos feminine is a relief. They are practical winter warmers and I loved those that featured fringing. Naturally, Miele would design a curvaceous silhouette with skirts tapered to the knee and an emphasis on the waist using paneling or extra wide leather belts with almost all his designs, a contrasting combination bringing them down to earth and making them wearable. Even his stunning silky dresses were grounded with simple blazers and boleros featuring gold-embroidered detailing. The weave theme was further emphasized with woven belts and scarves in eclectic colors.
The color palette was a combination of monochrome earth tones and dress prints featuring a woven kaleidoscope of colors reminiscent of stained glass church windows illuminated by the sun. They were vibrant and just stunning to say the least! Miele included an ocean theme with azure blue and gold cocktail dresses and gowns. They were constructed with horizontal paneling attached gently to an underlay, bringing them to life as the model walked. The dresses literally rippled with movement as a result of the sheen and shadows. A similar gown in gold, again, reminiscent of the tide after the sea retreats to leave its design in the sun-kissed sand. Introducing bright colors into a fall wardrobe is uplifting for a warm weather woman and it was one of my favored aspects of this collection.
Other gowns featured his classic floor sweeping silky style, using block coloring as an inspiration with ocean blues and black, or combining solids with eclectic colored prints. His weave theme inspired a dress featuring simple crisscrossing of ribbons starting with a tight weave on the bust, gradually loosening to disperse the weave through the widening of the skirt.
Leather laced peep toe ankle boots were the shoes of choice throughout. I liked the contrast with the delicate dresses but not my favorite style of shoe, nor did I think that the old-fashioned Jodhpurs were at all flattering. Overall, a very wearable collection, one which is sure to inspire a huge print trend for this fall. I’m thinking lots of chiffon and silks in eclectic prints, shoe boots, and definitely those wide belts over ponchos and coats. There will be lots of layering with contrasting knits and leathers over more delicate fabrics complimented with studded and sequined accessories. This fall is going to be a lot of fun!
TREND
Ponchos, traditional colorful weave motifs, open toe high ankle shoes, wide belts, high waists and curves, knee-length dresses and skirts, boleros and simple blazers over chiffon, block coloring combining a sheer print with a flat color, 1920’s Jodhpurs.
FAVORITES
Elegant knee-length kaleidoscope printed dresses cinched with a contrasting leather or traditional motif belt, classic Carlos Miele flowing dresses, traditional fabric and leather themed belts, monochrome and chiffon combination gowns, bright winter palette.
WHO
This collection is for a traveler who understands culture and loves to embrace all facets. She loves color and combining ideas for something unexpected. She also adores nature and the warm climates because this collection is nothing but a reminder of who she is inside.
WHERE
There was a clear division between day wear and evening wear but easy to do a little crossing over with the mixing and matching of a few garments. Dresses were primarily evening cocktail and events. Day wear can be for work or just wearing. The pieces were simple and great for complimenting items you already have.
