Photos by Walter Grio. Paris. More photos below.
Text by Baille Gelwicks.
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2013 Prêt à Porter
Bill Gaytten, the creative director, imagined a fierce woman for FW13 — a woman that doesn’t need frills nor jewels to be so, a woman comfortable and confident on her own. Wearing old school conductors hats, these women are the conductors of their own destiny. Think heavy fabric, minimalistic appeal and roomy cuts. Pointed toe booties help to elongate the leg, a must with these larger cut bottoms. The collection is all about the lines with little to no detailing such as buttons, zippers, or hardware. Asymmetrical jackets are cut wide with no visible closing and wide angled sleeves lend shape to boxy cuts. High necklines and gloves proved that the only skin you would see here would be the ankles, thanks to the cropped pants that were worn without stockings.
Amongst a sea of black and gray, a cobalt coat and matching pants were the “highlight” of the collection. Patent booties are a great contrast to matte black fabric. Abstract patterns were also a welcome diversion from the monochrome pieces before. Gray painterly strokes looked like splashes of paint on an artist’s canvas. Eveningwear relied on pleating and ruched velvet for night time worthy drama. Covered from finger tip to toe, they were not your typical bare-all gowns we are used to. Clearly, Bill Gaytten had the idea that it’s a women’s world, and men just live in it, sex symbols and sexist stereotypes aside.
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