Written by Walter Grio. Photos courtesy of Zuhair Murad. More photos below.
+ READ ZUHAIR MURAD INTERVIEW
Special thanks to Mr. Murad for taking time out of his incredibly busy schedule to do the interview and also to HL Group for coordinating the interview.
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COUTURE PRINTEMPS/ÉTÉ 2013
From Zuhair Murad’s Official Program
Reminiscence of past splendors with overtones of spirituality. There are gold ornaments aged with time, the patinated sumptuousness of sculpted bas-reliefs are presented as an echo to celestial frescoes, the disturbing song of angels, the virtuosity of trompe-l’oeil vaults by Italian sculptor Antonio Raggi, bringing to mind the aesthetic and sensitive shock of Roman churches… Such are the aesthetics, then there is the movement, the empathy of a woman in keeping with her time in this couture collection by Zuhair Murad.
There is nothing backward-looking about these references, just the additional desirability of a piece embroidered with rooster feathers delicately painted by the Lemarié workshops. Or the infinite sensuality of a dress that mixes the transparencies of tulle and the ornaments of feathers and shells, divine motifs that sparked the inspiration of baroque artists. As the silhouettes move forward, hand-embroideries created by the Vermont House and the Lesage House rival in opulence.
Here, a dress cultivates anemones on its fragile tulle. Another reproduces the bas-reliefs and the marbles of a 17th century nave. An almost ecclesiastic cape seems eaten up by the embroideries of small feathers.
A mantilla discretely shines out from its delicately faded gold silk. Glacier blues, washed out greens, powdery salmons have infused this wardrobe beset by an exalted femininity.
The body necessarily exults in short dresses built in the corset spirit, telescoping delicate guipures and baroques applications, the chiffon cascades of an asymmetrical dress, or the brocade suit, slit in the back. Silk threads worked in the crochet technique sketch tattoos embroidered with mini pearls on the skin, troubling the gaze. High point, the sculptural body top is entirely hand-embroidered with sequins, baguettes and pearls using as recurrent leitmotiv the motifs of feathers and shells, enhancing the curbs of the vestals… Of women.